'As soon as curvy girls know we exist, they love us ...

With the likes of Hayley Morley, Laura Catterall and Gwyneth Harrison making a success of plus-size modelling, women have started to see a more realistic body shape (occasionally) creep onto catwalks. But for most, an honest reflection of women?s bodies is still missing from the media. Step forward Slink, a relatively new fashion and culture magazine whose cover line reads: ?Styling your curves, fashioning your life.? But, as editor-in-chief Rivkie Baum explains, it?s not easy getting the fashion world on board when you don?t deal with sample sizes.

What made you start a magazine aimed at the plus size market?
I graduated from the London College of Fashion and started freelancing as a fashion stylist, but I had only ever worked on straight size editorials. I ended up working in retail in a plus-size boutique and I suddenly realised that there was a market made up of women who had spending power but didn?t have any media formats that reached them. The regular glossies didn?t interest them and there was nothing luxurious or inspirational to show them what was ?in?. I?d seen European plus-size magazines but didn?t like the editorials, and thought I could do a better job if I styled and shot them in the same way as straight size fashion shoots.

Is there any particular reason you chose Slink?
We literally debated the name for hours and came up with nothing. I wanted a name that didn?t automatically scream plus-size and therefore would never be embarrassing to be caught reading on the train or sneakily at work. The name literally just popped into my head. I like that it feels like a curvaceous word; it?s fresh and fun.

How would you describe your own figure and did this influence the initial quest for a magazine that targets the plus size market?
I?m a size 16/18, although my personal shape wasn?t the catalyst to start the magazine. I?ve been into fashion my whole life and I?ve been every size from a 12 to a 22. I still read all the glossies and love working in straight size too, I just thought I could start a magazine that shows women no matter what their size.

What has the response been like?
The response has been great! One email we had from a reader made me cry ? a woman explained how her and a friend, both a size 14, were at their wit?s end with how they?re being made to feel about their bodies and how Slink has been refreshing in countering such views from the media. As soon as curvy girls know we exist, they love it, it?s just making sure people know about us which proves the challenge. Gok Wan has just shot an editorial for his website and we?ve also hooked up with the American television show called Curvy Girls which will feature Slink in September.

A lingerie shoot for Slink Photograph: Slink

Your magazine is entirely ad funded at the moment, how difficult has that been?
It?s been a real mixed bag. A lot of plus-size retailers have come on board which is great, but I?m deeply frustrated by the short-sighted views from mainstream brands in terms of advertising. This includes beauty brands. You?re never too curvy for makeup, hair products or accessories. I think from a simple economic point of view the accessories and beauty brands are missing out on a significant market. At the magazine we illustrate catwalk trends on slightly fuller figures and samples aren?t available out of season. We can?t work three to six months ahead like most magazines and even plus-size brands for shopping pages aren?t shot until the last minute which makes the fashion pages hard. Some brands have been reluctant to loan out items including high street brands that go up to a size 22. It?s frustrating as a stylist and it limits me in what I can produce and also what I can show the readers. I find it odd that companies spend money producing products they?re essentially too ashamed to push.

Have any straight size brands been supportive?
Companies such as Dune and Dorothy Perkins have been great. We do work with some beauty brands but there?s a big difference between talking to PR representatives and those who work on a marketing budget. Plus size isn?t a priority even though the market is growing.

Who would be your ideal cover girl?
If I?m being honest I?m not that bothered by celebrity covers. I love interviewing really interesting women that have achieved great things that inspire me, but if I had to choose it would be Christina Hendricks, Queen Latifa or Amber Riley.

Are there more plus size models than there used to be, and how is the process of booking models for the magazine?
There are definitely more plus-size models than there used to be. The plus-size agencies have been incredibly supportive of Slink and I?m really grateful for that. I?ve worked with some of the most beautiful girls and it seems crazy that they?re shunned because they?re a size 16. It makes me laugh when brands fob people off by saying they couldn?t use plus size girls as the models don?t exist ? they do, I?ve worked with them!

Do you think the perceptions of plus size models have changed in recent years?
I think there are definitely more retail options for plus-size women than there was, with brands like ASOS launching Curve which is great. The problem with plus-size modelling in the UK is that it starts from a size 12, which is not really plus-size, so people use size 12 as a get out clause for ?shooting plus-size.? If you look at other countries such as Italian Vogue and French Elle, they put bigger models on the cover without any fuss, whereas in the UK it?s such a huge deal. I think this is for two reasons. Firstly, there is still a lot of stigma attached to plus size women, who are still very demonised by the media, and secondly, it is harder to style plus-size so maybe most magazines just can?t do it (now there?s a challenge for them!). Models like Robyn Lawley and Tara Lynn do help but the UK is so backwards about plus size as we deal in size not actual health. We?re too quick to judge and have a culture of crash diets and weight obsession.

Rivkie was talking to Grace Quinn. Click here for more information on Slink magazine.

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